Unit: AM/FM Stereo Receiver
Manufacturer: Craig
Model: 5502
SN: 26107601
A
friend of mine bought this vintage receiver at a yard sale for $10, but didn’t
know it had a problem. The right channel has a constant “hum” noise and no sound at all, and the left channel is highly distorted. So, he asked me to repair it if it wouldn’t be too costly. He wanted to use it in his garage. I agreed to take a look and fix it if he paid just for parts. We made a deal.
I
don’t know much about Craig’s receivers, and he didn’t have any documentation
for it. I tried to search online for a service manual, but was not able to find
even a schematic. A very popular website where you can download service manuals
for free is https://www.hifiengine.com/.
But it doesn’t have a service manual for this model. So, it was a little bit tricky
for me to service it without a schematic. But I like to be challenged!
Initial check with the Dim Bulb Tester
I used my Dim Bulb Tester (DBT) to initially power up the Craig receiver and check if it had any short circuits somewhere. For those who
don’t know, the DBT will protect your vintage gear by limiting the maximum current
to the device under test. It is especially important when a vintage gear with
unknown history is tested, or after the repair is done. I always use my DBT as a
quick test between different restoration steps. So, the light bulb flashed for
a second on bright and then dimmed out almost completely. It’s a good sign, meaning that the Graig receiver has no short circuit. I also checked the DC voltage
across the speaker terminals to make sure that I can connect the receiver to my
speaker system. However, the DC voltage across the right speaker terminals was
~5.3V, which is way too high and would definitely damage the speaker. The DC
voltage across the left speaker terminals was ~4.0mV, which is normal. Now it’s time
to remove the wood cabinet and look inside.
Power Amplifier
Board
Well, the power amplifier board has signs of extensive heat
damage, and somebody tried to repair it. The power transistor Q215 was
previously replaced, but as can
be seen from the photo below, the wires close to the transistor leads were
overheated and just wrapped with electric tape. All emitter resistors
R237/R239 (left channel) and R238/R240 (right channel) were overheated. Two of
them, R239 and R240, were completely burned out. Resistors R229 & R235 (left
channel) and R230 (right channel) were overheated as well. I tested all power transistors and all overheated resistors from this
board, and the results are below.
Test results on all
power transistors and overheated resistors from the power amplifier board:
Q213: 2SD180, NPN, left channel – Okay
Q215: 2SA626, PNP, left channel – Okay (previously replaced)
Q214: 2SD180, NPN, right channel – Okay
Q216: 2SA626, PNP, right channel – shorted
collector-emitter
R237: rated resistance – 0.47Ω, measured – 0.5Ω
R239: rated resistance – 0.47Ω, measured – open circuit
R238: rated resistance – 0.47Ω, measured – 0.5Ω
R240: rated resistance – 0.47Ω, measured – open circuit
R229: rated
resistance – 220Ω, measured – 221Ω
R235: rated
resistance – 6.8Ω, measured – 6.8Ω
R230: rated
resistance – 220Ω, measured – 218Ω
Power amplifier board - power transistor Q215 (second from the left) was previously replaced
Wires close to the transistor leads were overheated and just wrapped with electric tape
Green emitter resistors (left channel) and resistors R229 & R235 are overheated
Green emitter resistors (right channel) and resistor R230 are overheated
Power transistor Q216 (right channel) - shorted between collector and emitter
Repair and Adjustments
I replaced all
emitter resistors with 3W wire-wound resistors to improve power dissipation. All
½ W resistors were also replaced with metal film resistors. Two power
transistors from the right channel were replaced with ON Semiconductor MJ
transistors. Two power transistors from the left channel were kept original. Finally,
I tested all diodes and driver transistors on this board, and no other issues
were found.
After the repair
was finished, I powered up the receiver and adjusted the idle current to ~30mA
on each channel. The idle current is controlled by trimmers VR203 (left channel)
and VR204 (right channel). The resistance of each green emitter resistor is
0.47Ω. So, to adjust the idle current to ~30mA, the voltage across the green
wire wound resistors should be adjusted to ~14mV (0.03A x 0.47Ω = 0.014V).
Power Amplifier board - after repair
Power amplifier board - after repair, left channel
New ON Semiconductor power transistors installed on the right channel
I have the same receiver. Getting a pop when powered on and 12-15v on the left channel speaker terminals. Can't find any shorts in the power amp. Ideas?
ReplyDeleteHi, did you test two power transistors in the left channel?
DeleteThanks Oleg! You were a big help with my 5502 repair and pot settings.
ReplyDelete